I have them. I got some of that Bayer stuff, as it said "rainproof in one hour" and applied it Saturday, before the rain came.
I can't tell if it's doing anything.
I would pave over my yard if I could.
Often takes about 3 or 4 days to show any effect, and sometimes you want to hit a certain type of weed when its in its rapid growing season, the product seems to work best at that time. Started using roundup last year and it works well on most crabgrass but had some heavy duty spots and also had some stubborn sprouts all over one part of the yard from an old Chinese Apple. Regular round up wasn't working so had to do the nuclear option heavy strength, so ended up with a yard that looked like a lspotted leopard for a while lol. But I got the buggars. Now its little patches of oninons around the back yard that I have to work on this year.
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on March 13, 2012, 06:59:03 PM
I have them. I got some of that Bayer stuff, as it said "rainproof in one hour" and applied it Saturday, before the rain came.
I can't tell if it's doing anything.
I would pave over my yard if I could.
Just sit back and enjoy the early color in your lawn. The purple and yellows are truly a relief from the bland brown tones of winter. I'll bring you some dandelion seed if you want...
Otherwise, forget the futility of all those chemicals and set the mower to the lowest setting for the next month or so, and cut it short (1.5") for the next month or so BEFORE the little blossoms have the chance to go to seed - when the blooms start to show purple, cut it. You are reducing if not eliminating the seed source for next year by doing this. Then you got the issue of neighbors and their flowers.
Then, when the bermuda starts to come in, set it up to AT LEAST 3" tall. I set mine even higher, and it is strong, healthy, and survives even last year with minimal watering (almost none). Yeah, there was browning last year, but it came back quickly when we got a little water.
The bermuda WILL soon choke out the weeds.
Check the OSU extension web site for lawn information. Or anything else agricultural. They really know their stuff.
Roundup is the nuclear option that kills everything, including the stuff you want to keep. Even worse than most for yard use. 3 months of dead space.
Onions - cut them the same way. Or pull them and use them to cook with. Very good for kitchen use, just not large bulbs.
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 13, 2012, 09:29:11 PM
Then, when the bermuda starts to come in, set it up to AT LEAST 3" tall. I set mine even higher, and it is strong, healthy, and survives even last year with minimal watering (almost none). Yeah, there was browning last year, but it came back quickly when we got a little water.
The bermuda WILL soon choke out the weeds.
Excellent advice.
Should have hit it in the fall....
I overseed in October and do pre-emergent once in February, and again at the end of March. I have very few if any weeds. Last year I opted to plant around 20lbs of daffodils throughout the lawn. Now I have a patches of daffodils to mow around. It's a pain, but very pretty. I hope they last until after Easter.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6835699330_cd6e867ffc.jpg)
You don't need to spend a bunch of money on a lawn service. Just use a good pre-emergent in the spring, and mark a recurring date on your calendar to apply it. Since it's "after-the-fact" for your lawn, and if the weeds outnumber the grass, I would wait until after all of this wet weather to apply any broad-leaf sprays. They work, but they do so by interrupting the way broad-leaf plants take up water. We're going to have a wet spring, and any broad-leaf herbicide you apply is going to take a long time to work and likely require multiple applications. It may also leech into the soil with the rain and affect any shrubs or bedding plants you have. When the forecast shows a week or two of dry warm weather, spray it.
I mow extremely high (usually just the mower setting). This also helps to keep weeds out in the spring and summer. If you do not have a sprinkler system, buy a timer for your hose sprinkler and make sure your lawn gets a good drink every couple of days at least. Most of our Oklahoma weeds are used to dry compact soil. They do not compete well with fescue or bermuda in moist well drained soil.
I love spring. This is a dangerous time for me, because I'll spend my lunch hour at the garden center buying plants that I probably don't need. Yesterday it was half a dozen more Tomato plants and a brown turkey fig tree.
Gaspar,
Have you been to Grogg's Green Barn? New place, nice little shop on 61st, east of Mingo. They have good seeds and last year had a selection of very good looking, strong, healthy plants/trees. Limited selection compared to Southwood, but closer for me. Nice people, too. I enjoy just walking around looking at their place, even if somewhat small.
And they have red wigglers if you are into vermiculture!
But beware!! They advocate organic gardening!
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on March 13, 2012, 06:59:03 PM
I have them. I got some of that Bayer stuff, as it said "rainproof in one hour" and applied it Saturday, before the rain came.
I can't tell if it's doing anything.
I would pave over my yard if I could.
I'd like to pave over my yard if I could too, I already had to cut my lawn. The weeds seem heavy this year, one weed looks a bit like a Texas Bluebonnet flower I dunno if it is or not- but it was in my side yard. I bought a white bottle of lawn & weed killer I forgot who makes it but Wal-Mart had it for $8.00 last year and you mix it with watter, one little bottle can make up to 10 gallons of weed & grass killer, it takes a few days to see an effect and it's rainproof after two hours, it kills everything but only for the season and then everything comes roaring back. The joys of home ownership. Work, work, and more work.
Ever try napalm?
Quote from: Conan71 on March 14, 2012, 03:16:02 PM
Ever try napalm?
Gives me quite a charge first thing.
Quote from: Townsend on March 14, 2012, 03:19:53 PM
Gives me quite a charge first thing.
Ahhh, the smell.
Thanks for all good advice...very good advice in some cases. I guess I'll mow that sh*t sometime this week. I used to like taking care the yard, but last summer really took all the fun out of it.
Now, I let it grow high as well, but let me ask you all about fungus control as it has not been mentioned here yet.
I did the fungus and then the weeds two years back and all was pretty good. I forgot to do the fungus last year, and no amount of height on the bermuda was going to choke out anything.
Do you guys do the fungus control as well?
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on March 14, 2012, 03:24:11 PM
Thanks for all good advice...very good advice in some cases. I guess I'll mow that sh*t sometime this week. I used to like taking care the yard, but last summer really took all the fun out of it.
Now, I let it grow high as well, but let me ask you all about fungus control as it has not been mentioned here yet.
I did the fungus and then the weeds two years back and all was pretty good. I forgot to do the fungus last year, and no amount of height on the bermuda was going to choke out anything.
Do you guys do the fungus control as well?
No, never. Which fungus are you talking about? Toadstools? The yellow slime stuff that grows in the shade? Grey powdering stuff on the grass leaves/stems? Brown (dead grass) spots sprinkled throughout the yard?
Overall, too much of too many chemicals is gonna create horrible imbalances that will mess with the grass much worse than just letting it rest for a year or two, then approach it gradually. Too much fertilizer is a huge part of that. And don't get me started about "thatch" or "aeration"... geez, what a cluster that bill of goods is that has been sold to the American people.
Very reasonable and effective weed control can be achieved by just being aware of the reproduction cycles of the weeds you are trying to control. Simply put, a weed needs seeds to continue. Mow the flowers off before they go to seed, and you interrupt the cycle so there is no next generation.
Then all you have to worry about is seed blowing in from somewhere - and you literally cannot do anything about that.
Quick explanation; I would say mow the grass long all the time, except that for me, it seems to work best to cut it short this time of year to let sun in to ground level to help warm up the soil a little bit. It will make weed seeds grow more quickly now, too, but then I can mow them down when the flowers appear, and voila, no more weeds. Bermuda grows in, chokes the rest out for the rest of the year.
Buffalo grass looks like it might be an alternative to bermuda, if you have plenty of money. Have been thinking about trying some.
Quote from: Gaspar on March 14, 2012, 07:37:19 AM
I overseed in October and do pre-emergent once in February, and again at the end of March. I have very few if any weeds. Last year I opted to plant around 20lbs of daffodils throughout the lawn. Now I have a patches of daffodils to mow around. It's a pain, but very pretty. I hope they last until after Easter.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6835699330_cd6e867ffc.jpg)
Wait a minute! You intentionally planted daffys around the yard? And apply herbicides to presumably prevent, among other things, dandelions?
You get exactly the same yellow for no cost whatsoever with the dandelions. And purple with the henbit. And pretty little white flowers with the chickweed. A rainbow of color in early spring to break through the monotonous brown winter blanket.
Add some fescue or rye or wheat and you get the overwinter green.
Magnificent!!
Dandelion is essentially the same flavor note as arugula. Quite good unless it's been hit with Round-Up. I'm not really sure someone didn't figure out that "arugula" sounded a whole lot more food-snob than "dandelion".
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 14, 2012, 06:21:13 PM
No, never. Which fungus are you talking about? Toadstools? The yellow slime stuff that grows in the shade? Grey powdering stuff on the grass leaves/stems? Brown (dead grass) spots sprinkled throughout the yard?
Overall, too much of too many chemicals is gonna create horrible imbalances that will mess with the grass much worse than just letting it rest for a year or two, then approach it gradually. Too much fertilizer is a huge part of that. And don't get me started about "thatch" or "aeration"... geez, what a cluster that bill of goods is that has been sold to the American people.
Very reasonable and effective weed control can be achieved by just being aware of the reproduction cycles of the weeds you are trying to control. Simply put, a weed needs seeds to continue. Mow the flowers off before they go to seed, and you interrupt the cycle so there is no next generation.
Then all you have to worry about is seed blowing in from somewhere - and you literally cannot do anything about that.
Quick explanation; I would say mow the grass long all the time, except that for me, it seems to work best to cut it short this time of year to let sun in to ground level to help warm up the soil a little bit. It will make weed seeds grow more quickly now, too, but then I can mow them down when the flowers appear, and voila, no more weeds. Bermuda grows in, chokes the rest out for the rest of the year.
Buffalo grass looks like it might be an alternative to bermuda, if you have plenty of money. Have been thinking about trying some.
alright alright, simmer down now... I'll start mowing the damn yard twice a week right now whether it needs it or not ;)
the fungus...if you have a wet winter/spring, then your grass comes up all patchy and thin, it is because of the fungus, or mold or whatever.
Anyway, 2 years ago my lawn was horrible and my good buddy in NOLA told me what to do. Fixed it up pretty good. Last year I forgot the fungus, and the grass was still patchy and thin. I don't recall how bad my weeds were, because when it's still 98* at 11pm, I don't even care what I'm running over with the damn mower, but the bermuda wasn't choking smile, I gurantee you that.
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on March 14, 2012, 08:31:26 PM
alright alright, simmer down now... I'll start mowing the damn yard twice a week right now whether it needs it or not ;)
the fungus...if you have a wet winter/spring, then your grass comes up all patchy and thin, it is because of the fungus, or mold or whatever.
Anyway, 2 years ago my lawn was horrible and my good buddy in NOLA told me what to do. Fixed it up pretty good. Last year I forgot the fungus, and the grass was still patchy and thin. I don't recall how bad my weeds were, because when it's still 98* at 11pm, I don't even care what I'm running over with the damn mower, but the bermuda wasn't choking smile, I gurantee you that.
Simmer? I said all that in a very low voice. I get into a mellow groove when talking about or working with plants/gardens/trees.
Man, have we got our work cut out for us with you. You believe anything someone from NOLA says?? Hey, while we're there - I got an ocean front lot kit for sale - in Arizona.
Last year was not a good year as reference for much of anything except misery. Bermuda likes occasional water, but really doesn't want to stay wet. That is probably bigger effect than fungus. Fungus will hurt, no doubt. Most likely cause - too much fertilizer - makes bermuda susceptible to brown patch. And too much water from wet spring.... Oh, yeah, never water anything after about noon or much before sunrise. (Especially roses!!)
Another very bad thing to do to your lawn is to bag the grass. Let the clippings fall where they may. If you have excess dead grass, then you messed up by not mowing soon enough. Just mow again a few days later and it will disappear as desired - and needed by the lawn!
Still might want to look at buffalo grass. Only grows to about 4 or 5", so would be more forgiving if miss a mowing. Since you are the boss, you can afford it. (I'm just a poor little worker bee, so it will be a long time for me to convert my yard.)
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 14, 2012, 09:27:26 PM
Simmer? I said all that in a very low voice. I get into a mellow groove when talking about or working with plants/gardens/trees.
Man, have we got our work cut out for us with you. You believe anything someone from NOLA says?? Hey, while we're there - I got an ocean front lot kit for sale - in Arizona.
Last year was not a good year as reference for much of anything except misery. Bermuda likes occasional water, but really doesn't want to stay wet. That is probably bigger effect than fungus. Fungus will hurt, no doubt. Most likely cause - too much fertilizer - makes bermuda susceptible to brown patch. And too much water from wet spring.... Oh, yeah, never water anything after about noon or much before sunrise. (Especially roses!!)
Another very bad thing to do to your lawn is to bag the grass. Let the clippings fall where they may. If you have excess dead grass, then you messed up by not mowing soon enough. Just mow again a few days later and it will disappear as desired - and needed by the lawn!
Still might want to look at buffalo grass. Only grows to about 4 or 5", so would be more forgiving if miss a mowing. Since you are the boss, you can afford it. (I'm just a poor little worker bee, so it will be a long time for me to convert my yard.)
Alright, listen my buddy in NOLA has same grass and aside from the occasional ice storm and/or 24" blizzard, actually has similar conditions. He told me what to do, I did it, and I had luxurious lawn.
I don't use fertilizer. Ever. Even against all the talk of all my neighbors that have deep green carpet thick lawns, and try to sell me on the 30/70 or whatever the love that nitrogen smile is.
Lastly, I would ask you about the bagging. I thought you were supposed to bag the first mow of the season, and usually have. Otherwise, screw that smile as well...I got to mow this lawn in 100* heat, you think I'm going to bucking bag it? :D
Quote from: Conan71 on March 14, 2012, 08:26:48 PM
Dandelion is essentially the same flavor note as arugula. Quite good unless it's been hit with Round-Up. I'm not really sure someone didn't figure out that "arugula" sounded a whole lot more food-snob than "dandelion".
If you go to Whole Foods you will find that seasonal dandelion greens are quite expensive. If you walk out of Whole Foods and look down, you can pick some for free.
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on March 14, 2012, 09:48:50 PM
Alright, listen my buddy in NOLA has same grass and aside from the occasional ice storm and/or 24" blizzard, actually has similar conditions. He told me what to do, I did it, and I had luxurious lawn.
I don't use fertilizer. Ever. Even against all the talk of all my neighbors that have deep green carpet thick lawns, and try to sell me on the 30/70 or whatever the love that nitrogen smile is.
Lastly, I would ask you about the bagging. I thought you were supposed to bag the first mow of the season, and usually have. Otherwise, screw that smile as well...I got to mow this lawn in 100* heat, you think I'm going to bucking bag it? :D
Kind of surprised they wouldn't be growing St. Augustine grass down in NOLA. It becomes prevalent around Dallas and further toward the tropics. Unfortunately, our freeze situation here makes it impossible to survive our winters.
Quote from: Conan71 on March 15, 2012, 09:03:19 AM
Kind of surprised they wouldn't be growing St. Augustine grass down in NOLA. It becomes prevalent around Dallas and further toward the tropics. Unfortunately, our freeze situation here makes it impossible to survive our winters.
yeh, I don't know for sure about everybody down there, but his lawn is bermuda for whatever reason.
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on March 14, 2012, 09:48:50 PM
Lastly, I would ask you about the bagging. I thought you were supposed to bag the first mow of the season, and usually have. Otherwise, screw that smile as well...I got to mow this lawn in 100* heat, you think I'm going to bucking bag it? :D
OSU Extension has some excellent information about all things green and growing. Including lawn care for Oklahoma. And the Master Gardener program in this state is in the top tier nationwide (15th street west of Yale).
And never bag. Anything. Ever.
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 15, 2012, 02:18:43 PM
OSU Extension has some excellent information about all things green and growing. Including lawn care for Oklahoma. And the Master Gardener program in this state is in the top tier nationwide (15th street west of Yale).
And never bag. Anything. Ever.
alright then, I am going no bag on first mow this year. :D Thanks for all the info 8)
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 15, 2012, 02:18:43 PM
OSU Extension has some excellent information about all things green and growing. Including lawn care for Oklahoma. And the Master Gardener program in this state is in the top tier nationwide (15th street west of Yale).
And never bag. Anything. Ever.
Ever? I can't agree.
What if you want to start a compost pile?
I would amend your statement that you should never throw away grass clippings.
Quote from: RecycleMichael on March 15, 2012, 09:48:50 PM
Ever? I can't agree.
What if you want to start a compost pile?
I would amend your statement that you should never throw away grass clippings.
Buy an old bale - couple years old - of hay and start with that. Can find that all over the place. I have also talked to some of the farm and ranch stores in northeast Oklahoma who sells square bales, After a time, a pile of broken bales and other loose hay accumulates. I have a couple of favorites, that I wont mention for obvious reasons, that will let me shovel all that loose stuff I want. Have started compost piles as large as a 16' car hauler trailer, 7 feet tall on the bed with all the hay I could stand to shovel at one time. Check with the FFA people in BA. Or maybe the boarding stables around town. There is lots of stuff out there, just gotta look around a little bit.
And once you have started that compost pile, NEVER put any meat or meat eating animal products in it.
Don't get me started on compost - I will never stop. I had one a few years ago when was raising a few cattle that was about 30' in diameter and piled up way over my head. Contained the remains of about 5 round bales with lots of cow manure in it. Still some left, but has grown over with grass. Beautiful grass.
Compost is one of God's greatest gifts. Right behind Oreo's and wine coolers for breakfast!
And yes, never throw away grass clippings.
I will be teaching a class on composting on March 31st at TCC northeast campus. It will be 45 minutes in length and start at 11:00am
Quote from: RecycleMichael on March 15, 2012, 10:13:17 PM
I will be teaching a class on composting on March 31st at TCC northeast campus. It will be 45 minutes in length and start at 11:00am
Cool!! Free or fee?
Bins? Worms?
Have a close relative who used to bag regularly. I took his bags of grass and composted them, then put them on the yard. Showed him the green grass and told him thanks for all that fertilizer he threw away.
I just use the single pile method and a pitch-fork to compost. Have a pile in the woods behind the house that is about 5 feet tall. I layer leaves, organics (grass clippings and shredded plants) then more leaves. I also use the hay-bale that my wife feels compelled to purchase every year for Halloween. You would be amazed at how much hay is in a bale when you break it up.
The key is to keep it moist and turn it every couple of weeks (at least). I just move the pile from one spot to another.
I also have lots of trees that I prune every year as well as trees that fall in the woods. I cut them into 2ft lengths and drill holes every 6". I then pound plugs inoculated with shiitake mushroom or oyster mushroom spore that I buy on Ebay, and stack them up near the creek. I get a nice healthy crop of mushrooms, and after a year or two the logs are mush ready for the compost pile. I have a small stack this year that I hope will be blooming after the rains next week. I'll post pics if they bloom.
I enjoy watching plants rot almost as much as I do watching them grow!
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 15, 2012, 10:20:37 PM
Cool!! Free or fee?
Bins? Worms?
Have a close relative who used to bag regularly. I took his bags of grass and composted them, then put them on the yard. Showed him the green grass and told him thanks for all that fertilizer he threw away.
The class is free. I will cover bin designs and spend a little time on worms as well.
I call it binformation and global worming.
Quote from: Gaspar on March 16, 2012, 08:34:07 AM
I just use the single pile method and a pitch-fork to compost. Have a pile in the woods behind the house that is about 5 feet tall. I layer leaves, organics (grass clippings and shredded plants) then more leaves. I also use the hay-bale that my wife feels compelled to purchase every year for Halloween. You would be amazed at how much hay is in a bale when you break it up.
The key is to keep it moist and turn it every couple of weeks (at least). I just move the pile from one spot to another.
I also have lots of trees that I prune every year as well as trees that fall in the woods. I cut them into 2ft lengths and drill holes every 6". I then pound plugs inoculated with shiitake mushroom or oyster mushroom spore that I buy on Ebay, and stack them up near the creek. I get a nice healthy crop of mushrooms, and after a year or two the logs are mush ready for the compost pile. I have a small stack this year that I hope will be blooming after the rains next week. I'll post pics if they bloom.
I enjoy watching plants rot almost as much as I do watching them grow!
Can you buy morrell spore or will it grow in our climate?
Quote from: Conan71 on March 16, 2012, 09:06:19 AM
Can you buy morrell spore or will it grow in our climate?
Yes you can and it grows quite well. You spread it in a shady tree covered area where you have lots of leaf-fall. It takes a couple of years but you will start to get good size flushes in the spring and fall. I have found wild morels all over Oklahoma. I buy a lot of my supplies here. http://www.fungi.com/ and here http://www.gmushrooms.com/mhk.htm .
You can also get better deals on ebay.
A fun project is growing oyster mushrooms on a roll of toilet paper. I did this for the kids once.
(http://www.namyco.org/images/pictures/cultivation/oyster_tp.jpg)
Quote from: RecycleMichael on March 16, 2012, 08:42:43 AM
The class is free. I will cover bin designs and spend a little time on worms as well.
I call it binformation and global worming.
OK, now the secret is out. Composting is causing man-made global warming.
;D
Quote from: Gaspar on March 16, 2012, 12:29:44 PM
Yes you can and it grows quite well. You spread it in a shady tree covered area where you have lots of leaf-fall. It takes a couple of years but you will start to get good size flushes in the spring and fall. I have found wild morels all over Oklahoma. I buy a lot of my supplies here. http://www.fungi.com/ and here http://www.gmushrooms.com/mhk.htm .
You can also get better deals on ebay.
A fun project is growing oyster mushrooms on a roll of toilet paper. I did this for the kids once.
(http://www.namyco.org/images/pictures/cultivation/oyster_tp.jpg)
A fungus amongus.
Gaspar, where did you get the Brown Turkey Fig? I had one for yrs but the heat of summer before last zapped it. It was a prolific producer.
Quote from: Red Arrow on March 16, 2012, 12:33:14 PM
OK, now the secret is out. Composting is causing man-made global warming.
;D
I does produce CO2, heat and Methane, but I would assume far less than commercial fertilizers and Urea. The stuff is going to rot one way or another. If you send it off to the city landfill you lose the benefit to your lawn.
Quote from: ARGUS on March 16, 2012, 01:18:46 PM
Gaspar, where did you get the Brown Turkey Fig? I had one for yrs but the heat of summer before last zapped it. It was a prolific producer.
Lowe's has them for about $10.
They grow well in Oklahoma if you can get them past the first year or two. They tend to put on heavy top growth before the roots get a chance to mature. Using a rooting hormone when you plant and cutting off any blooms that may form the first year will help.
a threadjack and I'm not sure anyone has mentioned Marshalls.....you are all in violation of TOS. just saying.
Holy smokies!
Richard Branson: I asked for weed at White House
Read more: http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0312/74111.html#ixzz1pOsm3YZi
http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0312/74111.html
I only get one "Daffy" plant that comes up each year next to my porch, it pops up in February it flowers fast then dies. The kind of weed killer I use is called "Elimantor" comes in a small 16 oz bottle, sells for $8.00 at Wally World, and mixes with water to make 10 gallons. It works great, but kills grass & weeds. Water proof in two hours.
Quote from: Teatownclown on March 17, 2012, 01:33:13 PM
Holy smokies!
Richard Branson: I asked for weed at White House
Read more: http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0312/74111.html#ixzz1pOsm3YZi
http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0312/74111.html
I thought I smelled something like that wafting from the direction of Necker Island last weekend when MC and I were sailing in the North Sound.
Quote from: Red Arrow on March 16, 2012, 12:33:14 PM
OK, now the secret is out. Composting is causing man-made global warming.
;D
Read closer - it's global WORMING.
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on March 19, 2012, 08:56:12 AM
Read closer - it's global WORMING.
Dang progressive bi-focals.
It's still slow oxidation of hydrocarbons though.
Quote from: Red Arrow on March 19, 2012, 11:48:25 AM
Dang progressive bi-focals.
It's still slow oxidation of hydrocarbons though.
Could be worse - could need trifocals....
dude. so far, non-bagging, mowing high, no treatment = everyone in HOA got a nicer lawn than I do.
I got a feeling the OSU papers mention weedkill, antifungus, and nitrogen.
whatev though.
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on April 05, 2012, 12:49:15 AM
dude. so far, non-bagging, mowing high, no treatment = everyone in HOA got a nicer lawn than I do.
I got a feeling the OSU papers mention weedkill, antifungus, and nitrogen.
whatev though.
Hit it with some Weed-B-Gone. As the name implies, it makes the weeds be gone.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 05, 2012, 07:38:40 AM
Hit it with some Weed-B-Gone. As the name implies, it makes the weeds be gone.
On some lawns, it would be Green-B-Gone.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 05, 2012, 07:38:40 AM
Hit it with some Weed-B-Gone. As the name implies, it makes the weeds be gone.
I just wish they made a product called 'Weed-Stay-Gone'...
I'm going to do one application of weed & feed on the front yard, then over-seed with Bermuda on the sunny areas in a few weeks and fertilize the crap out of it from now on. I managed to choke out crab grass at the first house I ever owned by simply feeding and watering the existing Bermuda.
Now that I'm in the same place most weekends and nights, I actually have time to properly take care of a lawn. My fescue over-seeding in the back yard last fall was a success. I just did my spring over-seed in the remaining bare areas and can't wait to see a full lawn front and back now.
Oh, and also kudos to Recyclemichael: the Garden Gourmet composter works like a charm. I thought I'd ignored it too much last year and it didn't get enough sunlight for heat. Turns out, I got around 50-70 pounds of really rich soil out of it which came in really handy for some garden top soil, potting soil for herbs and a little extra to mix in with fescue seed. MC and I moved it to a sunnier spot last night, I'm anxious to see how much quicker we get good soil out of it now.
I got a feeling I should have bagged that first mow. Weeds not gone but in check for now. Applied the anti fungus stuff last week. Probably hit it with weed gone one more time next week. I think perhaps it is time I looked into some of that overseeding you mention....you just lay down some bermuda right over the lawn or is there any other prep work involved?
Quote from: TheMindWillNotLetGo on April 05, 2012, 11:00:40 AM
I got a feeling I should have bagged that first mow. Weeds not gone but in check for now. Applied the anti fungus stuff last week. Probably hit it with weed gone one more time next week. I think perhaps it is time I looked into some of that overseeding you mention....you just lay down some bermuda right over the lawn or is there any other prep work involved?
Most people recommend sowing it in about 1/4". On my back lawn (fescue and rye blend), I did no prep, just hand cast the seed (easy now, no Biblical references) and covered it with top soil to about 1/4". Germinated in 5-10 days and has taken root nicely. Not 100% certain Bermuda will respond that way. They have a grass-specific soil at Lowe's I've used a couple of bags of. Once I discovered a nice mound of fresh dirt in my compost bin, I finished up the rest of the back yard over-seed with that.
I know with fescue, the earlier you can over-seed in the spring the better. Not sure about Bermuda if there is a cut-off point when you really should not apply after. I'm not aware of it ever being too hot for Bermuda to germinate.
My experience is that it is best to seed fescue in the fall (late September through October). The reason being that if you seed in the spring you cannot put down a pre-emergent for weeds without preventing or retarding the germination of the fescue.
Seeding in the fall also gives the new root system all winter to establish underground. This is especially helpful if you don't have an automatic sprinkler system, because grass freshly germinated in the spring has very little root mass and dies out easily in Oklahoma summers.
this is kinda my schedule:
February: First application of pre-emergent/crabgrass preventer, trim crapemyrtles and other shrubs.
March: First mow at 2" (3-3.5" after that)
April: Second application of pre-emergent/crabgrass preventer
October: Over-seed with fescue
Always water grass in the early morning, never in the evening or at night.
For the very few weeds that I do get, I use a broadleaf killer with MSMA to get the crab-grass. Unfortunately I had to purchase a stockpile of MSMA back in 2008.
If I can avoid using a chemical and just pull the weeds, I do.
Against better judgement and advice of others, I did not over-seed last spring until late May. The fescue was not very happy about it but it survived the summer heat, mainly because I set a sprinkler out with a timer to hit it every morning about 6am. Main reason I don't care as much for fall over-seeding is having to stay on top of leaf fall to keep it from getting smothered. Now that I've got my monster 6.5 HP Lawnboy mulcher back to health, won't be an issue to keep up with leaves so long as it doesn't suck up the seeds or new grass :o
Quote from: Conan71 on April 05, 2012, 12:23:42 PM
Against better judgement and advice of others, I did not over-seed last spring until late May. The fescue was not very happy about it but it survived the summer heat, mainly because I set a sprinkler out with a timer to hit it every morning about 6am. Main reason I don't care as much for fall over-seeding is having to stay on top of leaf fall to keep it from getting smothered. Now that I've got my monster 6.5 HP Lawnboy mulcher back to health, won't be an issue to keep up with leaves so long as it doesn't suck up the seeds or new grass :o
John Deere X360. 48" cut, power steering, hydraulic mowing deck lift, takes about 1-1/2 hours to cut the yard since we have a lot of trees.
http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/zmags/residential/online_brochures/rle_literature/static/select_series_zmags.html
Quote from: Red Arrow on April 05, 2012, 01:00:51 PM
John Deere X360. 48" cut, power steering, hydraulic mowing deck lift, takes about 1-1/2 hours to cut the yard since we have a lot of trees.
http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/zmags/residential/online_brochures/rle_literature/static/select_series_zmags.html
Cup holder?
Ooh! Grunt Grunt Grunt.
It takes one of these bad boys to take on a lawn the size of mine
(http://www.fatwallet.com/static/attachments/12582_picture8.png)
Quote from: custosnox on April 05, 2012, 02:32:20 PM
It takes one of these bad boys to take on a lawn the size of mine
(http://www.fatwallet.com/static/attachments/12582_picture8.png)
Cup holder?
I love my postage stamp sized lawn. It was even better at my last house, the swimming pool took up the better part of the back yard so there was no grass, just banana trees, some tomato vines, and the rest was all pretty much plant and forget vegetation. It took right at 7-8 minutes to mow the front and I could go jump in the pool afterward.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 05, 2012, 02:15:13 PM
Cup holder?
Yep, in the right fender. I had to go look since I don't drink and mow.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 05, 2012, 03:00:23 PM
Cup holder?
nah, but has an after market keg holder and tap that you can install.
Quote from: custosnox on April 05, 2012, 06:54:29 PM
nah, but has an after market keg holder and tap that you can install.
I think I would get way too tired operating a weed eater with a keg attached. I probably wouldn't care though.
:D
Quote from: Conan71 on April 05, 2012, 09:05:14 AM
I'm going to do one application of weed & feed on the front yard, then over-seed with Bermuda on the sunny areas in a few weeks and fertilize the crap out of it from now on. I managed to choke out crab grass at the first house I ever owned by simply feeding and watering the existing Bermuda.
Now that I'm in the same place most weekends and nights, I actually have time to properly take care of a lawn. My fescue over-seeding in the back yard last fall was a success. I just did my spring over-seed in the remaining bare areas and can't wait to see a full lawn front and back now.
Oh, and also kudos to Recyclemichael: the Garden Gourmet composter works like a charm. I thought I'd ignored it too much last year and it didn't get enough sunlight for heat. Turns out, I got around 50-70 pounds of really rich soil out of it which came in really handy for some garden top soil, potting soil for herbs and a little extra to mix in with fescue seed. MC and I moved it to a sunnier spot last night, I'm anxious to see how much quicker we get good soil out of it now.
A couple things to note. Bermuda does not seed very well. That is why people prefer to sod over seed with a bermuda lawn. Also, germination with most grass seeds takes place with cooler temperatures at night. Fescue needs night time temps in the 50s, and bermuda in the low 60s. If you are going to weed & feed wait at least six weeks after your seed germinates. Most broadleaf weed killers will not kill grass, but will stunt what is called "adventurous root growth." If you expose newly germinated grass to the chemical, it will stunt the root growth resulting in die-out during the warm season.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 09, 2012, 07:34:39 AM
Bermuda does not seed very well.
Then how do they make sod? ;)
Quote from: Conan71 on April 09, 2012, 08:24:04 AM
Then how do they make sod? ;)
Well, there's a mommy sod and a daddy sod. . .actually they use plugs, or more recently, companies are actually spraying a mix of paper or peat pulp and bermuda rhizomes.
It just takes so long for Bermuda to build a root base from seed that the purchase of bermuda seed is really a waste. If you have just a few bare spots, you can buy a single roll of bermuda at Steve's and break it apart in a wheelbarrow, then rake the area, sprinkle with the cut-up rhizomes and establish a rather large area without investing in much sod. That will produce a more reliable result than seed!
Spraying pulp mixed with bermuda seed has proven very successful on highway easements, especially on severe slopes.
That's the problem, I have a few spots in various places around the front yard that were under the shade of the river birch I had removed last fall. I'd thought about the sod route, but didn't want uneven spots from it. If I "plug" it using a few strips of sod, how far should I space the plugs?
Quote from: Conan71 on April 09, 2012, 08:45:07 AM
That's the problem, I have a few spots in various places around the front yard that were under the shade of the river birch I had removed last fall. I'd thought about the sod route, but didn't want uneven spots from it. If I "plug" it using a few strips of sod, how far should I space the plugs?
Depends on how fast you want it to fill. If you do every 8" in a grid it will fill very quickly. If you just tear apart a square of bermuda, spread it evenly and cover with a little peat, it will cover even faster. Bermuda is so invasive!
Is there any shade in that area now?
I have a front yard of zoysia and a back yard of bermuda and fescue mixed. I love the zoysia the most. If I were to ever sod a large new lot, I would pick it.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 09, 2012, 08:49:01 AM
Depends on how fast you want it to fill. If you do every 8" in a grid it will fill very quickly. If you just tear apart a square of bermuda, spread it evenly and cover with a little peat, it will cover even faster. Bermuda is so invasive!
Is there any shade in that area now?
There is some shade from the remaining oak tree in the front yard, but not near enough to get away with a fescue or rye. Bermuda should be really happy there.
Quote from: Conan71 on April 09, 2012, 08:55:56 AM
There is some shade from the remaining oak tree in the front yard, but not near enough to get away with a fescue or rye. Bermuda should be really happy there.
I would defiantly go the Plug/rhizome avenue. If you do seed, you may see cute little sproutlings in 10 days, but the heat of the summer will zap them. If you have some good bermuda in the back yard or on a side yard, you can also dig some of it up and shred it to save even more money. Buying bermuda in Oklahoma is like buying canned air. It's everywhere and spreads so quickly.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 09, 2012, 09:09:12 AM
I would defiantly go the Plug/rhizome avenue. If you do seed, you may see cute little sproutlings in 10 days, but the heat of the summer will zap them. If you have some good bermuda in the back yard or on a side yard, you can also dig some of it up and shred it to save even more money. Buying bermuda in Oklahoma is like buying canned air. It's everywhere and spreads so quickly.
I appreciate the tip, you probably just saved me from a frustrating mistake. I'll get a couple of rolls of Bermuda sod and plug it.
Many thanks!
Quote from: Conan71 on April 09, 2012, 10:38:32 AM
I appreciate the tip, you probably just saved me from a frustrating mistake. I'll get a couple of rolls of Bermuda sod and plug it.
Many thanks!
You're welcome. I used to be a grass expert back in college.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 09, 2012, 10:46:20 AM
You're welcome. I used to be a grass expert back in college.
I was a weed expert. Same difference, I suspect.
Quote from: Gaspar on April 09, 2012, 09:09:12 AM
I would defiantly go the Plug/rhizome avenue. If you do seed, you may see cute little sproutlings in 10 days, but the heat of the summer will zap them. If you have some good bermuda in the back yard or on a side yard, you can also dig some of it up and shred it to save even more money. Buying bermuda in Oklahoma is like buying canned air. It's everywhere and spreads so quickly.
In my pepper garden, in the (gravel) driveway, in the cracks between blocks in the sidewalk to the front door.... Everywhere but the lawn.
:D
Quote from: Conan71 on April 09, 2012, 08:45:07 AM
That's the problem, I have a few spots in various places around the front yard that were under the shade of the river birch I had removed last fall. I'd thought about the sod route, but didn't want uneven spots from it. If I "plug" it using a few strips of sod, how far should I space the plugs?
I didn't see a mention of what type grass is around the spots from the river birch. If bermuda is there, the new stuff should do well, but if it won't grow right next to the bare spot, you may still have too much shade.
Zoysia is great! Does well in the shady spots I put it in, but takes a LONG time to fill in if use plugs. Even sod seems to take more than expected time to become established. I have about 1,000 sq feet in two sections now that are doing well even with fairly heavy shade - and it really isn't rated as a "shade" grass!