First, don't ever buy from BMW of Tulsa. Period. I won't go into details, but they continually remind me why I will never do business from them again, almost to the point of wanting to sell the one I have and buy another from a different dealership. It's not the car that's the problem, its the service of the people that work there.
So my next question is, I need a mechanic to look at the car, does anyone have suggestions? Thanks!
I like O'Brien's over on 6th a couple of blocks east of Peoria. David is car smart and brutally honest. Another one that comes to mind is European Auto Imports (was on 15th) if they still exist.
Quote from: tulsa_fan on October 24, 2011, 03:49:01 PM
First, don't ever buy from BMW of Tulsa. Period. I won't go into details, but they continually remind me why I will never do business from them again, almost to the point of wanting to sell the one I have and buy another from a different dealership. It's not the car that's the problem, its the service of the people that work there.
So my next question is, I need a mechanic to look at the car, does anyone have suggestions? Thanks!
I think Jackie Cooper services BMWs (yes, I said "services"). Next time you buy, get a Lexus.
I still own my first car....a 1974 2002 BMW. I have maintained it to zen standards over 36 years. Last year, Kurt Krans at European overhauled it. I was told it would be $3900 to do....it cost $5000, but worth every penny. Benzein is another good group off BA and Memorial.
I have owned several bimmers. Never again. Cars are appliances. At this time, buy cars with great track records and long warranty's.
What year and model is your car?
Quote from: tulsa_fan on October 24, 2011, 03:49:01 PM
First, don't ever buy from BMW of Tulsa. Period. I won't go into details, but they continually remind me why I will never do business from them again, almost to the point of wanting to sell the one I have and buy another from a different dealership. It's not the car that's the problem, its the service of the people that work there.
So my next question is, I need a mechanic to look at the car, does anyone have suggestions? Thanks!
Suggestion; sell the Bimmer and buy a Ford F-250 or Dodge Ram 2500, but only with a diesel engine.
Quote from: Teatownclown on October 24, 2011, 05:58:40 PM
I still own my first car....a 1974 2002 BMW. I have maintained it to zen standards over 36 years. Last year, Kurt Krans at European overhauled it. I was told it would be $3900 to do....it cost $5000, but worth every penny. Benzein is another good group off BA and Memorial.
I have owned several bimmers. Never again. Cars are appliances. At this time, buy cars with great track records and long warranty's.
What year and model is your car?
2006 325i, we got a great deal on it, so I am thinking of selling it and get something else, no warranty, but that didn't bother me to much.
Thanks for the ideas, I'm hopeful its nothing major and all is fine. I like to drive it and appreciate the better gas mileage than my sequoia!
Quote from: tulsa_fan on October 25, 2011, 01:48:32 PM
2006 325i, we got a great deal on it, so I am thinking of selling it and get something else, no warranty, but that didn't bother me to much.
Thanks for the ideas, I'm hopeful its nothing major and all is fine. I like to drive it and appreciate the better gas mileage than my sequoia!
If you have the books that's a very marketable car. It should be easy for you to post and sell.
Keep the next scheduled maintenance under your hat if they don't know about it though.
Quote from: Townsend on October 25, 2011, 01:54:58 PM
If you have the books that's a very marketable car. It should be easy for you to post and sell.
Keep the next scheduled maintenance under your hat if they don't know about it though.
When I bought my 1995 540i in the fall of '94, Buick and BMW were still next to Sam's. The salesman said that, surprisingly enough, the scheduled maintenance on a Buick was about the same cost as the scheduled maintenance on the BMW. It's just that most Buick owners don't do all the scheduled maintenance. Now the first few (4?) years of scheduled BMW maintenance is built in the price of the car. After that it will be expensive. I personally have not had any trouble with BMW of Tulsa service but my BMW is a nice weather car now so it hasn't been in for service much.
Quote from: tulsa_fan on October 25, 2011, 01:48:32 PM
2006 325i, we got a great deal on it, so I am thinking of selling it and get something else, no warranty, but that didn't bother me to much.
Thanks for the ideas, I'm hopeful its nothing major and all is fine. I like to drive it and appreciate the better gas mileage than my sequoia!
As long as you got a good enough deal, the price of some surprise maintenance shouldn't turn you off to a fun to drive car. Plus, you might as well get some fun out the the maintenance $ you are about to put into it.
Quote from: Red Arrow on October 25, 2011, 01:59:37 PM
When I bought my 1995 540i in the fall of '94, Buick and BMW were still next to Sam's. The salesman said that, surprisingly enough, the scheduled maintenance on a Buick was about the same cost as the scheduled maintenance on the BMW. It's just that most Buick owners don't do all the scheduled maintenance. Now the first few (4?) years of scheduled BMW maintenance is built in the price of the car. After that it will be expensive. I personally have not had any trouble with BMW of Tulsa service but my BMW is a nice weather car now so it hasn't been in for service much.
I was going by average mileage per a 6 year old car. Guessing there's somewhere between 72k to 90k there's some fairly costly scheduled maintenance coming up for a 3. Brakes could be a big one.
I like the guys at Benzin Motor Works. They will want to put top notch gear on your car, but they'll be very honest about it. They love BMW's themselves.
Quote from: Townsend on October 25, 2011, 02:05:03 PM
I was going by average mileage per a 6 year old car. Guessing there's somewhere between 72k to 90k there's some fairly costly scheduled maintenance coming up for a 3. Brakes could be a big one.
I did the brakes on mine about 2 years ago. Plan on replacing the rotors and wear sensors. At BMW of Tulsa it would have been $500/axle. I bought OEM quality (but not with the BMW stamp) for about 1/2 that. I also bought the retaining bolts that hold the rotor to the hub when the wheel is not on. It's not a bad job as long as whoever may have had the rotors off ahead of you remembered to put anti-sieze between the hub and rotor.
Edit: Clarification - Front axle and Rear Axle for total of $1000. Not an axle at each corner.
Quote from: Red Arrow on October 25, 2011, 03:39:48 PM
I did the brakes on mine about 2 years ago. Plan on replacing the rotors and wear sensors. At BMW of Tulsa it would have been $500/axle. I bought OEM quality (but not with the BMW stamp) for about 1/2 that. I also bought the retaining bolts that hold the rotor to the hub when the wheel is not on. It's not a bad job as long as whoever may have had the rotors off ahead of you remembered to put anti-sieze between the hub and rotor.
Edit: Clarification - Front axle and Rear Axle for total of $1000. Not an axle at each corner.
I replaced 4 sets of pads, 2 front rotors, and one rear drum for about $ 200. (All heavy duty for the 3/4 ton pickup).
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on October 26, 2011, 12:50:33 PM
I replaced 4 sets of pads, 2 front rotors, and one rear drum for about $ 200. (All heavy duty for the 3/4 ton pickup).
There were some less expensive options out there but I don't compromise on brakes. I wanted OEM quality or better.
Quote from: Red Arrow on October 26, 2011, 01:59:44 PM
There were some less expensive options out there but I don't compromise on brakes. I wanted OEM quality or better.
I bought the most expensive and lifetime warranty (I want better than OEM - always! Especially on brakes!)
Truck parts are just that much less than BMW parts. Plus, I bet you can't haul plywood in the trunk! At least not a very large sheet.
Quote from: tulsa_fan on October 25, 2011, 01:48:32 PM
2006 325i, we got a great deal on it, so I am thinking of selling it and get something else, no warranty, but that didn't bother me to much.
Thanks for the ideas, I'm hopeful its nothing major and all is fine. I like to drive it and appreciate the better gas mileage than my sequoia!
What is it doing. How many miles? I'm fairly familiar with that engine.
Quote from: Gaspar on October 28, 2011, 01:49:09 PM
What is it doing. How many miles? I'm fairly familiar with that engine.
Idling hard, almost to shaking and feels like it is slipping some in the shift, I started to drive it to skiatook and got freake don the HWY and came back home. I had my kids with me. My husband's driven it around town. It's got 58k miles and were are still 6k from the next oil recommended oil change. (the first one since we bought it) We are taking it to dealership tomorrow to see what they say, and then decide what to do. I have just been lucky, in the last 6 years, I've probably not put $$ into my cars unless it was routine maintence or replacements (tires, brakes, etc.) I can't remember the last time I took a car in because something was wrong with it!
Quote from: tulsa_fan on October 31, 2011, 01:43:01 PM
Idling hard, almost to shaking and feels like it is slipping some in the shift, I started to drive it to skiatook and got freake don the HWY and came back home. I had my kids with me. My husband's driven it around town. It's got 58k miles and were are still 6k from the next oil recommended oil change. (the first one since we bought it) We are taking it to dealership tomorrow to see what they say, and then decide what to do. I have just been lucky, in the last 6 years, I've probably not put $$ into my cars unless it was routine maintence or replacements (tires, brakes, etc.) I can't remember the last time I took a car in because something was wrong with it!
6,000 miles from next recommended oil change? Every mechanic I've taken my Bimmer to as told me to bring it in every 3,000 just like any other car.
Quote from: rdj on October 31, 2011, 01:47:57 PM
6,000 miles from next recommended oil change? Every mechanic I've taken my Bimmer to as told me to bring it in every 3,000 just like any other car.
My scheduled changes range from 7500 to 8000 miles. They've been that way since my '97 318i.
Quote from: Townsend on October 31, 2011, 01:51:15 PM
My scheduled changes range from 7500 to 8000 miles. They've been that way since my '97 318i.
I have a '98 328i. Everyone I've talked to says pay no attention to the auto indicator.
Quote from: rdj on October 31, 2011, 02:05:50 PM
I have a '98 328i. Everyone I've talked to says pay no attention to the auto indicator.
Got over 110,000 miles out of it before I sold it (running fine) being attentive to that indicator.
Quote from: Townsend on October 31, 2011, 02:09:00 PM
Got over 110,000 miles out of it before I sold it (running fine) being attentive to that indicator.
Auto indicators are set to go off at pre-determined service intervals. I have had several Mercedes and currently have a SAAB that I have learned to reset the indicators in manually.
As for oil, with Mobil One I go 5-7k before a change, and I do the changes myself always! I have pushed several cars beyond 200k without ever having a friction based repair. I learned from my mechanic's assistant that many dealerships/quick change places (several where he used to work) will simply use crap Valvoline in place of the oil you actually specify, so I don't trust them, especially when spending the extra cash on Mobil One.
The BMW in question has Valvtronic timing. Dirty intake (including a dirty butterfly valve) really messes with the valve timing on these models. It will make it run like an old pickup. In many cases just changing the filter and cleaning the black gunk off the butterfly valve will make it like a new car, but since it's pushing 60K, you likely have other scheduled maintenance issues. Butterfly valve is easy to clean, you can look it up online. It's the big air valve between your air cleaner and your intake manifold. Be careful, the edges will cut the dickens out of your fingers. Use carburetor cleaner on a rag, and get both sides of the valve as well as the inside of the housing.
I've owned BMWs but I don't like them because much of the design is specifically engineered so that YOU can't work on it. I don't mean that it's hard, I mean that they actually engineer ways to make simple repairs impossible for the general public. They also rely on electronic systems for simple processes that would be more reliable and efficient through mechanical processes. They are fun to drive though.
Quote from: Gaspar on October 31, 2011, 03:51:19 PM
I've owned BMWs but I don't like them because much of the design is specifically engineered so that YOU can't work on it. I don't mean that it's hard, I mean that they actually engineer ways to make simple repairs impossible for the general public.
Any manufacturer and an O2 sensor. (Specific tool you must have to get to the sensor.)
Quote from: Gaspar on October 31, 2011, 03:51:19 PM
Auto indicators are set to go off at pre-determined service intervals.
That's incorrect.
QuoteDepending on the vehicle manufacturer and the specific equipment used, oil indicators come in two basic varieties: algorithm-based and direct measurement.
Algorithm-based oil indicators measure lots of factors and then plug the resulting numbers into a formula. Based on the answer to this complex, ongoing math problem, the indicator display will tell you whether the oil is OK, is close to requiring replacement or needs replacing immediately.
Interestingly, with these types of indicators, there are no sensors to detect the quality of the oil itself. Instead they combine data on how many miles you've driven, the temperature variations during that time and data about how much work the engine has performed. Typically, the indicator (monitoring system) will receive such data from the powertrain control module, or PCM, which is the main on-board computer. Engineers have figured out a fairly accurate and reliable way to calculate the remaining oil life this way, without having to actually sample the oil.
Direct measurement oil life indicators measure the condition of the oil -- the opposite approach to the system described above. This method uses sensors to sample the oil and determine its remaining life based on any of the following:
•Conductivity -- how easily electric current passes through the oil (typically, the lower the electrical resistance, the more contaminants are in the oil)
•Mechanical properties -- piezoelectric sensors can tell how thick the oil is by the force feedback it gives when sloshing around
•Soot concentration -- dirty oil's days are definitely numbered
•Presence of water -- water is an impurity in oil, since it hampers the oil's effectiveness and can corrode metal surfaces
Different oil monitoring system manufacturers may use a combination of these measurement techniques. Typically, the information will display as a digital readout on the vehicle's instrument cluster. The display can feature a green, yellow or red-style status bar, with red indicating the "change oil now" zone; it could be a percentage, displaying a text message, something like "40 Percent Oil Life Remaining," or it might just be a light or a message that just comes on automatically when it's time for an oil change.
QuoteGeneral Motors estimates that drivers of its oil monitor-equipped vehicles could have two to three times fewer oil changes performed each year. Theoretically, according to GM, if all the GM oil monitor-equipped cars on the road observed the maximum interval for changing oil, instead of the oft-advised every 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers), it could result in 100 million fewer gallons of oil being consumed annually. Nonetheless, GM still advises changing the oil at least once a year, regardless of how few miles you put on the odometer.
Quote from: Townsend on October 31, 2011, 04:00:49 PM
That's incorrect.
Part of that once a year thing is that if you drive that few miles, all those accumulated nasties from not running the car enough to heat it up to drive out moisture are gonna hurt the engine. Best all around would be to drive at least 20 miles or so at highway speeds every day of the world. Extremely low mileage is always gonna be the worst case scenario for the long term.
The 3,000 mile thing is way obsolete for modern engines. 5,000 is easy and 7,500 would be good if you had a good highway mix without a lot of "Ricky Racer" clowning around going on. I haven't had a car since a 1980 Olds Delta that got less than 200,000 miles and way more. The Olds would have gone more (engine cratered at 198,000) if the kid driving it had just checked the oil at ANY time in the two weeks the check engine light was shining before seizing up. Makes ya wanna hate kids!
And I have used Valvoline in each of those cars with excellent results. Good stuff! The latest two Mercs were 248,000 and 216,000. The 216,000 is still the daily driver doing fine. At 19 mpg, too!! (Just over 24 when go to long highway trip). Not bad for a big old mushmobile...
Long story short, I always make sure the oil/filter is changed by 7,500 miles. And don't use Fram filter - cheapest POS available. Wix. Sometimes early, some not. Don't matter what kind of oil you use - regular or synthetic - you should easily get 200k out of the most engines today. (Well, maybe except GM...)
Quote from: Townsend on October 31, 2011, 04:27:21 PM
That wasn't a rec.
rec - as in requirement? Or recommendation?
Quote from: heironymouspasparagus on October 31, 2011, 04:33:03 PM
rec - as in requirement? Or recommendation?
GM doesn't recommend once a year. They say "at least do that".
I take you for a Ford guy then?
Quote from: Townsend on October 31, 2011, 04:36:17 PM
GM doesn't recommend once a year. They say "at least do that".
I take you for a Ford guy then?
Yes, should do at least that.
I have had one Volkswagen, one Toyota Corolla, one Honda Civic, two Chryslers, 6 Fords (Ford and Merc), and 14 GM (Buick, Olds, Pontiac, and Chevy), from first - 1961 Chevy to last - 1996 Olds Delta. Best car I ever had was a 1965 Buick Wildcat. Wish I still had it. All of the cars I have owned have given me excellent service, especially compared to the price paid!
Volkswagen had to have engine rebuild because I didn't know anything about anything then and took out the engine. The 70 Cutlass needs engine now (at 249,000 miles) because of another kid driver. Other than that, have only had to rebuild one other - the 1980 Olds mentioned previously that the kid took out for me.
No particular Ford bias. In fact, I am liking Dodge diesels right now REALLY well. Older one - 1999 second generation - in spite of the Bosch fuel pump situation.
Quote from: Townsend on October 31, 2011, 04:00:49 PM
That's incorrect.
Probably right for older GM, and less expensive models. They typically use what we used to call "Dummy Lights." One light or indicator to cover multiple things. Most of the cars I've had have different lights for service and sensor readings, or in the case of my SAAB and actual readout that tells you what's up. Most of the BMW and Mercedies I've had have one for service and another for check engine. Check engine (or engine icon) is linked to sensors. The service light (service soon icon) is mileage based and (on older BMWs) annoying as hell (bright!). I've actually had friends that took a hot paperclip and burned through the plastic on the instrument panel so that they could pop out the service light.
The older BMWs required that you had a technician plug in the diagnostic tool to reset the light but on most of the newer models, you can push a series of buttons and reset them. Most of the button "recipes" are online now.
My wife has a GM but hers has a readout that tells you what's wrong . . .and is typically wrong. I've learned to ignore it. I bought a Tech II on eBay a couple of years ago, and it has saved me many trips to the mechanic when simple stuff goes wrong.
Quote from: Gaspar on November 01, 2011, 06:42:15 AM
Most of the BMW and Mercedies I've had have one for service and another for check engine. Check engine (or engine icon) is linked to sensors. The service light (service soon icon) is mileage based and (on older BMWs) annoying as hell (bright!).
My 1995 540i has a series of green lights leading up to the oil change the first time and the service I or II the next.
QuoteThe older BMWs required that you had a technician plug in the diagnostic tool to reset the light ...
I bought a service light reset tool from one of the BMW parts and accessory stores on-line for about $45.
QuoteI bought a Tech II on eBay a couple of years ago, and it has saved me many trips to the mechanic when simple stuff goes wrong.
I bought a scanner/code reader for my Buick and mom's Chevy Astro. It's really helped several times. Auto Zone and maybe some others will scan and check codes for free. They are obviously hoping you will buy your parts there.
Quote from: Red Arrow on November 01, 2011, 07:46:36 AM
My 1995 540i has a series of green lights leading up to the oil change the first time and the service I or II the next.
I bought a service light reset tool from one of the BMW parts and accessory stores on-line for about $45.
I bought a scanner/code reader for my Buick and mom's Chevy Astro. It's really helped several times. Auto Zone and maybe some others will scan and check codes for free. They are obviously hoping you will buy your parts there.
Pep Boys scans for free too.
Well the sales guy told me every 10k, yes, I am "that" person that knows nothing about my cars and trusts the people I purchase from. If there is major maintenance or problems that have occurred in the 6k miles I have put on it since buying it, I will throw a FIT at BMW. They shouldn't be selling a car that needs maintence that quickly without doing it. And I specifically asked that question when I bought it and was told the next needed was $100 service at 10k . . . .
We'll see what the dealer says, at least for now, they have my crappy car and my husband is driving a new one around . . . sounds like I have a hostage . . . HA HA
Quote from: tulsa_fan on November 01, 2011, 10:26:39 AM
Well the sales guy told me every 10k, yes, I am "that" person that knows nothing about my cars and trusts the people I purchase from. If there is major maintenance or problems that have occurred in the 6k miles I have put on it since buying it, I will throw a FIT at BMW. They shouldn't be selling a car that needs maintence that quickly without doing it. And I specifically asked that question when I bought it and was told the next needed was $100 service at 10k . . . .
We'll see what the dealer says, at least for now, they have my crappy car and my husband is driving a new one around . . . sounds like I have a hostage . . . HA HA
Never trust a car dealer! Ever!
well, for 20ish years, I've been good. Of course, I bought 4 or 5 from Don Carlton Honda, then went to Lexus of Tulsa (LOVE THEM!), my only stray was BMW of Tulsa, and I will never go there again.
Quote from: tulsa_fan on November 01, 2011, 10:26:39 AM
And I specifically asked that question when I bought it and was told the next needed was $100 service at 10k . . . .
Did they give any indication of what that service is or is that the price of an oil change now if your car is past the initial service of a new car.
The last time my car was in for service, the labor rate was $100/hr (maybe plus some).
Quote from: Red Arrow on November 01, 2011, 11:04:31 AM
Did they give any indication of what that service is or is that the price of an oil change now if your car is past the initial service of a new car.
The last time my car was in for service, the labor rate was $100/hr (maybe plus some).
It was for the oil change and whatever they do standard then at 10k from the time I bought the car.
Get it fixed yet?